Many people consider the Middle Teton, third highest of the Teton peaks, to be one of the most interesting mountains of the range. Its structure is complex and harbors numerous routes, although only two, the Southwest Couloir and the North Ridge, are often climbed. With very few exceptions these are virtually the only routes used for descent. The Middle Teton is one of but two peaks, Mount Moran is the other, in the range that afford genuine glacier routes to the summit.
The Southwest Couloir can cause serious problems for the unaware. Many climbers begin ascending too early and mistakenly end up in steep, technical terrain. It is imperative that you continue all the way to the saddle between the South and Middle Teton - where Icefloe Lake is visible - before beginning your ascent or descent of the SW Couloir. On descent many accidents have occurred when climbers have failed to return to this saddle, attempting to short cut to the south and east on the steeper snow and rock below the SW Couloir.
The Southwest Couloir can cause serious problems for the unaware. Many climbers begin ascending too early and mistakenly end up in steep, technical terrain. It is imperative that you continue all the way to the saddle between the South and Middle Teton - where Icefloe Lake is visible - before beginning your ascent or descent of the SW Couloir. On descent many accidents have occurred when climbers have failed to return to this saddle, attempting to short cut to the south and east on the steeper snow and rock below the SW Couloir.
In recent years, the Black Dike route has been the site of numerous rescues due to the increase in this route's popularity. Be forewarned- many climbers underestimate the length of this route and don't have enough daylight or energy to make it to the summit. Exiting the route early (descending into Garnet Canyon's South Fork) requires advanced route finding through loose rock. Do your homework-consult multiple guidebooks and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.
