Middle Teton (12,804')

Many people consider the Middle Teton, third highest of the Teton peaks, to be one of the most interesting mountains of the range.  Its structure is complex and harbors numerous routes, although only two, the Southwest Couloir and the North Ridge, are often climbed.  With very few exceptions these are virtually the only routes used for descent.  The Middle Teton is one of but two peaks, Mount Moran is the other,  in the range that afford genuine glacier routes to the summit.

In recent years, the Black Dike route has been the site of numerous rescues due to the increase in this route's popularity. Be forewarned- many climbers underestimate the length of this route and don't have enough daylight or energy to make it to the summit. Exiting the route early (descending into Garnet Canyon's South Fork) requires advanced route finding through loose rock. Do your homework-consult multiple guidebooks and the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.

The Southwest Couloir is another common area for problems- many climbers begin ascending too early and mistakenly end up in significantly steeper terrain. Continue to the col between the South and Middle Teton- where Icefloe Lake is visible-then begin your ascent of the SW Couloir. On the descent many accidents have occurred when climbers have short cut to the south on the steeper snow and rock below the SW Couloir.